4G13 Engine

Mitsubishi 4G13 1.3 16V (82 HP) – Experiences, problems, fuel consumption and used car buying tips

Key points (TL;DR)

• Exceptional reliability: This is "old school" Japanese engineering. With regular maintenance, the engine is practically indestructible.
• Low maintenance costs: No expensive components like a dual-mass flywheel, turbocharger or DPF filter.
• Performance: The 82 HP engine feels lively in the light Colt, but struggles in the heavier Carisma or Lancer.
• Fuel consumption: Not a fuel economy champion in the city because it needs high revs, but still acceptable.
• Main enemy: Body corrosion of the car it’s installed in, rather than the engine itself. Idle issues are common but solvable.
• Recommendation: An ideal engine for beginner drivers or as a second family car due to low running costs.

Contents

• Introduction and applications
• Technical specifications
• Reliability and maintenance
• Specific parts and costs
• Fuel consumption and performance
• Additional options (LPG/Tuning)
• Gearbox and drivetrain
• Buying used and conclusion

Introduction and applications

The engine designated 4G13 belongs to the famous Mitsubishi "Orion" engine family that was produced for decades. The version we’re talking about here is a 1.3-liter 16-valve petrol engine with 82 horsepower. This powerplant marked the late 1990s and early 2000s in Mitsubishi’s lineup.

It was designed with a "simplicity above all" philosophy. Its purpose was not to break speed records, but to provide Japanese reliability in everyday driving. You’ll most often find it in the Mitsubishi Colt (where it behaves like a small rascal), but also in sedans such as the Lancer and Carisma, where it often runs out of breath for more serious overtaking.

Technical specifications

Reliability and maintenance

Timing belt or chain?

The 4G13 engine uses a timing belt for valve timing. This is a key maintenance item. A broken belt on this engine leads to a "collision" between pistons and valves, causing catastrophic engine damage (bent valves, damaged pistons). So you must not gamble with belt replacement intervals.

Major service and intervals

The recommended interval for the major service is every 90,000 km or 5 to 6 years, whichever comes first. During the major service, the belt, tensioner and water pump must be replaced. Parts costs for the major service are affordable (in the lower mid-range), which makes this engine cheap to own.

Oil: Capacity and consumption

The sump holds about 3.3 to 3.5 liters of oil (including the filter). The recommended grades are 5W-40 (for colder climates and well-preserved engines) or 10W-40 (semi-synthetic, most commonly used for higher-mileage engines).

Oil consumption: A healthy 4G13 engine should not consume a significant amount of oil. However, on units with more than 250,000 km, the valve stem seals can harden. The symptom is bluish smoke at the first cold start in the morning or after long idling. Consumption up to 0.5 liters per 10,000 km can be tolerated, but anything above that requires intervention (usually replacing valve stem seals and possibly piston rings).

Most common failures

Although the engine is robust, time takes its toll. Here’s what most often causes problems:

• Idle air control valve (IACV): The most common issue. Symptoms are fluctuating idle speed, stalling at traffic lights or excessively high idle. Cleaning the throttle body and the IACV often helps, but sometimes replacement is necessary.
• Hydraulic valve lifters: They produce a characteristic "ticking" or "tapping" sound, especially when the engine is cold. If the noise disappears once the engine warms up, it’s acceptable. If they tap constantly, they need to be replaced or you should try better quality oil.
• Distributor cap and ignition leads: Older models are sensitive to moisture. If the car "jerks" or is hard to start in wet weather, the problem is usually in the ignition system (spark plugs, leads, cap).

Specific parts and costs

Dual-mass flywheel and clutch

Good news: This engine DOES NOT have a dual-mass flywheel. It uses a classic solid flywheel that practically never needs replacing. The clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, release bearing) is a wear item, and replacement cost falls into the cheap category.

Injection system and turbo

The engine uses a classic MPI injection system with electronic injectors. The injectors are extremely durable and rarely fail unless poor-quality fuel is used for years. The engine is naturally aspirated, which means it has no turbocharger. This eliminates potentially expensive failures of the turbo, intercooler and pressurized hoses.

DPF filter and EGR valve

This is an older-generation petrol engine, so it does not have a DPF filter (which diesels do). As for the EGR valve, it is present to meet emissions standards (exhaust gas recirculation). It can get clogged with soot, which leads to engine hesitation or the "Check Engine" light coming on, but unlike modern diesels, here it is easy to remove and clean.

Fuel consumption and performance

Real-world fuel consumption

Don’t let the small displacement fool you. To get this engine moving, you have to rev it.

• City driving: Expect between 7.5 and 9.0 l/100 km. In a heavy body (Carisma) and in winter conditions, this can go up to 10 liters.
• Open road (secondary roads): This is where it’s most economical, using about 5.5 to 6.5 l/100 km.
• Motorway (130 km/h): Consumption rises to around 7.5–8.5 l/100 km due to high revs.

Performance: Is the engine "sluggish"?

It depends what it’s installed in:

• Mitsubishi Colt: The engine is perfectly adequate. The car is light, so 82 HP feels lively in the city.
• Mitsubishi Lancer / Carisma: Different story here. The engine is sluggish for this weight. Overtaking on country roads requires dropping to third gear and high revs. If the car is fully loaded with passengers and luggage, with the A/C on, you’ll feel a noticeable power drop on inclines.

Behaviour on the motorway

The gearbox is usually short-geared. At 130 km/h in fifth gear, the engine spins at about 3,800 to 4,000 rpm. This means noticeable engine noise in the cabin and that long-distance driving at high speeds can be tiring. This is not an engine for "cruising" in the fast lane of the autobahn.

Additional options and modifications

LPG installation

The 4G13 engine is an excellent candidate for LPG conversion. It has a metal intake manifold (on older versions) or a high-quality plastic one, and generally tolerates LPG well. A sequential system is recommended. It’s important to note: although most 16V versions have hydraulic lifters, always check with a mechanic whether your specific engine code requires valve clearance checks. If it has hydraulic lifters, no additional adjustment is needed. Fuel savings are significant given the somewhat higher city petrol consumption.

Chipping (Stage 1)

Not worth it. Since this is a small-displacement naturally aspirated petrol engine, "chipping" (ECU remap) can give you at most 3 to 5 HP, which you won’t even feel in real driving. It’s better to invest that money in quality tyres or regular servicing.

Gearbox

Types of gearboxes

This engine was most commonly paired with a 5-speed manual gearbox (F5M series). There are also automatic versions (a classic 4-speed automatic or, in later Colt models, a CVT), but they are extremely rare on the market in combination with the 1.3 engine.

Most common issues (manual gearbox)

Mitsubishi gearboxes from this period are generally precise, but they have two age-related weaknesses:

1. Gear selector bushings (shift lever): The plastic bushings wear out, so the gear lever becomes "floppy" and imprecise, and engaging first gear or reverse becomes difficult. The repair is cheap (bushing kit).
2. Gearbox bearings: If the oil has never been changed, the bearings can become noisy (a whine that disappears when you press the clutch).

Gearbox maintenance

The recommendation is to change the oil in the manual gearbox every 60,000 to 80,000 km. Although many manufacturers claim it’s "lifetime", in practice fresh oil protects the bearings and makes shifting easier in winter. The cost is negligible (about 2–3 liters of 75W-90 or 75W-80 oil, depending on the exact specification).

Buying used and conclusion

When buying a used car with the 4G13 engine, focus on the following checks:

1. Cold start: Listen to the engine while it’s cold. A few seconds of lifter ticking is OK, but if it doesn’t stop, it’s an expense.
2. Idle: Warm up the engine, turn on the A/C and lights. The revs should not drop drastically or fluctuate up and down. If they do, the idle control valve is dirty or faulty.
3. Exhaust smoke: Rev the engine. Blue smoke = the engine is burning oil. Black smoke = poor combustion/mixture.
4. Corrosion: Most important – check the wheel arches, sills and strut towers. These Mitsubishis rust much faster than their engines wear out.

Conclusion

Who is this engine for? Drivers who want cheap transport from point A to point B. It’s ideal for students, city delivery use (Colt) or as a family car for people who drive calmly (Lancer/Carisma).

If you’re looking for driving excitement, skip it. But if you want an engine that will start every morning and take you to work with minimal maintenance costs, the Mitsubishi 4G13 1.3 16V is an excellent choice, provided the bodywork around it is not a rust bucket.