R20A5, R20A9 Engine

Honda 2.0 i-VTEC (R20A5, R20A9) – experiences, issues, fuel consumption and used-buying tips

Contents

• Introduction and engine applications
• Technical specifications
• Reliability and maintenance
• Specific components (costs and failures)
• Fuel consumption and performance
• Additional options (LPG) and modifications
• Gearbox and drivetrain
• Buying used and conclusion

Introduction and engine applications

Honda built its reputation on high-revving petrol engines, but the R-series (R20) was designed with a different philosophy in mind: efficiency, smoothness and everyday usability. Specifically, the R20A5 and R20A9 variants used in the facelifted fourth generation Honda CR-V (2014+) represent the peak of this engine’s evolution.

Unlike modern downsizing trends and turbocharging, Honda stuck to a classic recipe here: 2.0 litres of displacement and natural aspiration. This is an engine for people who are sceptical of modern diesels and their complex emissions systems. Its simplicity is its biggest asset, but also its main limitation in terms of performance.

Technical specifications

Specification	Data
Displacement	1997 cc (2.0 L)
Power	114 kW (155 hp) at 6500 rpm
Torque	192 Nm at 4300 rpm
Engine codes	R20A5, R20A9
Injection type	PGM-FI (Multi-point / indirect injection)
Aspiration	Naturally aspirated
Cylinders/valves	4 cylinders / 16 valves (SOHC i-VTEC)

Reliability and maintenance

Does this engine have a timing belt or a chain?

The engine uses a timing chain. Honda’s chains on the R-series engines have proven to be very durable and rarely cause problems before 200,000 or even 300,000 kilometres, provided that the oil has been changed regularly. There is no need for preventive replacement as with a belt; it is replaced only if a rattling noise appears, which is rare on these engines.

What are the most common issues with this engine?

This is one of the most reliable engines on the market, but it’s not completely free of minor issues:

• VTC actuator (camshaft gear): A common issue on cold start. You can hear a short, sharp “rattle” or “grinding” lasting 1–2 seconds right after starting. Although it sounds scary, it rarely leads to serious damage, but it should be replaced if it becomes frequent.
• Serpentine belt tensioner: The tensioner of the auxiliary (serpentine) belt can weaken, causing vibrations or squealing.
• Oil level sensor: Sometimes can give false readings, but this is more an electronic than a mechanical fault.

Maintenance: major service, oil and spark plugs

Major service: Since it has a chain, a classic “major service” (belt replacement) does not exist. However, at around 100,000–120,000 km you should check the condition of the serpentine belt, the water pump, and replace the coolant.

Oil: The engine takes approximately 3.7 to 4.0 litres of oil (with filter). Honda strictly recommends 0W-20 grade for optimal fuel economy and cold-start protection, although in warmer climates or on higher-mileage engines a good quality 5W-30 is often used as well.

Oil consumption: R20 engines are generally “dry” and do not burn oil like some German competitors. Consumption of up to 0.5 litres per 10,000 km is acceptable, but most owners do not need to top up between services. If it uses more than a litre, this points to stuck piston rings (a consequence of poor maintenance) or leaks at gaskets/seals.

Spark plugs: Iridium spark plugs (NGK or Denso) are used. Their replacement interval is long, usually at 100,000 to 120,000 km. Do not experiment with cheap copper plugs.

Important note about valves: Although the engine is modern, it does not have hydraulic lifters. Valve clearance must be checked and adjusted mechanically. The recommendation is every 40,000 km to 100,000 km (more often if you run LPG).

Specific components (costs)

Does the engine have a dual-mass flywheel?

Versions with a manual gearbox have a dual-mass flywheel. However, since this is a petrol engine with lower torque than a diesel, the dual-mass flywheel is under much less stress and lasts significantly longer (often over 200,000 km). Versions with an automatic gearbox do not have a flywheel, but a flexplate and a torque converter instead.

Injection system, turbo, DPF, EGR

• Injection: Uses classic multi-point (indirect) injection into the intake manifold. This is a huge advantage for maintenance! Injectors are simple, cheap and rarely fail, unlike direct injection systems which suffer from carbon build-up on the valves.
• Turbo: The engine does not have a turbocharger. That means zero costs for turbo overhauls, intercoolers or pressurised hoses.
• DPF and AdBlue: Being a petrol engine, it does not have a DPF filter or AdBlue system. This eliminates some of the most expensive failures on modern cars.
• EGR valve: There is an exhaust gas recirculation system, but on petrol engines it is much cleaner than on diesels, and EGR clogging is extremely rare.

Fuel consumption and performance

What is the real-world city fuel consumption?

This is where we come to the biggest drawback of this engine in the heavy CR-V body. Real-world city consumption ranges between 10 and 12.5 litres per 100 km (depending on traffic and how heavy your right foot is). In winter and on short trips it can go up to 14 litres, especially on automatics with all-wheel drive (AWD).

Is this engine “lazy”?

By today’s standards – yes. The 192 Nm of torque is available only at a relatively high 4300 rpm. This means that for any serious acceleration or overtaking you need to drop one or two gears and let the engine rev. Compared to a 160 hp diesel with 350 Nm, this petrol feels anaemic at low revs. However, throttle response is linear and the engine likes to rev.

The engine on the motorway

On the motorway the engine is refined and quieter than a diesel. At 130 km/h in top gear (6th on the manual or 5th on the automatic), the engine spins at around 3000 to 3200 rpm. Fuel consumption on the open road is around 7.5–9 litres, depending on aerodynamic drag and speed.

Additional options and modifications

LPG conversion

Yes, this engine is suitable for LPG conversion because it has indirect injection. The system is simpler and cheaper than for direct-injection engines. However, Honda engines have somewhat “softer” valve seats.

Key warning for LPG: You must install a quality system (preferably with a valve lubrication kit) and you MUST check valve clearances every 30,000–40,000 km. If you neglect this, the valves will recess into the seats and you’ll be facing an expensive cylinder head repair.

Remapping (Stage 1)

On naturally aspirated petrol engines, “remapping” is mostly a waste of money. You might gain 5 to 8 hp and a slightly better throttle response, but you won’t feel a dramatic difference as you would on a turbo engine. It’s better to invest that money in quality tyres or regular servicing.

Gearbox

Manual and automatic gearbox

• Manual gearbox (6-speed): Typical for Honda – precise, short throws and very reliable. Failures are virtually unknown. Gearbox oil (Honda MTF-3) should be changed every 60,000–80,000 km to preserve the synchros. Clutch kit cost is moderate (depends on the market), while the flywheel is the more expensive part, but rarely fails.
• Automatic gearbox (5-speed): The CR-V IV used a conventional automatic with a torque converter. This is not a modern dual-clutch gearbox (like DSG), so shifts are slower and “smoother”. It is extremely reliable. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF-DW1) should be changed every 60,000 km (or 4 years). Failures are rare and mostly the result of not changing the oil.

Buying used and conclusion

What to check before buying?

• Cold start: Insist on starting the car with the engine completely cold. Listen for a short rattling sound (VTC actuator).
• Air conditioning: Check whether the AC compressor works and doesn’t make strange noises. On CR-V models the compressor clutch or the compressor itself can be a weak point.
• Rear differential (on AWD models): Turn the steering wheel fully and drive at low speed in a tight circle. If you hear humming or grinding from the rear, the differential oil (Honda DPS-F) needs to be replaced.
• Service history: Check when the valves were last adjusted.

Conclusion: who is it for?

The Honda CR-V with the 2.0 i-VTEC engine is an ideal choice for families who want a “fill up and drive” experience. If you drive up to 15,000 km per year, the higher fuel consumption will be offset by the absence of expensive failures (injectors, turbo, flywheel, DPF) that often accompany diesel versions.

However, if you frequently tow a trailer, drive a fully loaded car uphill or cover large mileages on open roads, the lack of torque will tire you out and the fuel consumption will be unjustifiably high. In that case, the 1.6 i-DTEC diesel is a better option. For everyone else – the R20 petrol is the king of reliability.